by Joan Westlake

Robin Tricks says that in 1987, friends thought it was a great idea for her and husband Robert to open a fine dining restaurant in Tempe. Robin met Robert when she hired him as a cook at Bandersnatch Brew Pub, a now defunct Tempe icon. She recognized immediately he was overqualified for the casual food joint. Soon after, they became partners in life and business.
    However, their friends also thought that the couple was crazy to start the House of Tricks in a funky little cottage off Mill Avenue.
 

Robert and Robin Tricks celebrate 20 years of fine dining success at their charming restaurant in downtown Tempe (photo by Joan Westlake).

“We planned to open on Mill Avenue,” Robin says, “but the cost was huge, even back then. I don’t think we would have made it on Mill. And, we certainly could not have created this atmosphere.”

    The charming 1920s bungalow caught Robin’s eye as she was rushing by one day while trying to negotiate a Mill Avenue rental. Although Robert said “no way” at first, they quickly found themselves renovating and operating the small café and catering business on Seventh Street.

    After a few years, they added the garden patio and business took off. They phased out catering and, in the mid 1990s, bought the house and the adjacent adobe and brick home, built in 1902, from architects Peters and Walling. The Tricks built a tree-house bar between the two structures and expanded the patio. The “new” bungalow is ideal for private parties and overflow dining.

    While the charming environment is a favorite with diners, it is the food that has kept them coming back. Robin describes it as gourmet American using local ingredients and flavors.

    Long before the Mediterranean diet became recognized for its health benefits, the Tricks served dishes such as the appetizer Mediterranean tapas platter with cucumber salad, hummus, ratatouille, Turkish tabouleh, dolmades, feta cheese and grilled flatbread ($8.50). You can see the influence in the lemon shrimp chopped Greek salad of cucumber, feta, sweet peppers, artichokes, tomatoes, kalamata olives and toasted croutons in fresh oregano vinaigrette ($11.50) and the house-made tagliatelle pasta with San Marzano tomatoes, toasted fennel goat cheese, roasted garlic and fresh basil ($21).

    The Southwest appears in selections such as the fire-roasted poblano chile stuffed with sweet corn, cilantro and Jack with red pepper coulis ($8). Other dishes seem to defy categorizing, such as the Midwestern corn-fed grilled New York strip with Ancho chile mustard sauce, haricots vert and smoked chile-goat cheese sweet potato gratin ($34).

    Robin says because they háve a lot of regular diners, the restaurant menu changes three times a year. Popular items are retained and new trends in taste and ingredients are added.

    A temperature- and humidity controlled cellar holds more than 2,500 bottles of wine. Wine tastings are the first Tuesday of the month from 6 to 7:30 p.m. The cost is $25 and includes a fruit and cheese appetizer. Stay for dinner and receive 10 percent off the entire dinner bill. There also are special events. Find out more by calling or e-mailing Ryan Brown at ryan@houseoftricks.com.

    Robin says two Valentine’s Day special dinners are being offered. Make your reservations quickly as the restaurant is a local favorite for special events and holiday dining. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., the bar is open until 1 p.m. and, in the style of a true neighborhood café, will stay open until 2:30 a.m. while groups linger. Sundays the doors are closed.

    House of Tricks is located at 114 E. Seventh St. in Tempe. For reservations, call 480-968-1114. For more information visit www.houseoftricks.com.